Photo: Matthew Shepherd

Part III: Bee Friendly Lawns, No Mow May, & Low Mow Spring FAQs

Mowing your lawn less — even every two to three weeks — allows flowering plants to bloom, providing bees and other pollinators with nectar and pollen they rely on to feed themselves as well as their offspring. This is the primary benefit, giving flowers a chance to bloom uninterrupted and in greater abundance. Longer grass can also provide other benefits to invertebrates. The more varied structure created by longer grass will support more than just bees, including providing shelter for invertebrates like ground beetles, lacewings, and species of butterflies that use grasses as host plants. The fiery skipper and sachem are two examples of butterflies whose caterpillars utilize lawn grasses.

It won’t be great, but it will be better than nothing. Letting your lawn grow and allowing Dutch clover and other weeds to bloom will mean there is something for bees to forage on, but many weeds are non-native, and consequently, don’t support a wide range of native bees. (The nutrition they provide has been likened to the equivalent of fast food for people.) In addition, some lawn weeds are noxious and need to be controlled. To be honest, even unmown lawns generally don’t provide many resources for pollinators, compared to a meadow or prairie with native plants. But reducing the intensity of lawn maintenance is a starting point for changing our neighborhoods into places that will support bees and other wildlife.

Because lawns are usually mowed regularly, the plants that grow there are species that tolerate being cut back frequently. Both grasses and typical lawn weeds have buds that are low to the ground, so they are able to re-sprout after each mowing and their roots tolerate the compacted soil that is caused by the frequent passing of the mower’s wheels. Turfgrass and common lawn weeds may also grow in nearby compacted soil, but in general, they will not spread to other non-lawn areas, where different soil conditions and the presence of other perennial vegetation or tillage is beyond their “comfort zone.”

While lawns are traditionally maintained as primarily monocultures of non-native grass, many lawns also include a variety of native and non-native flowering species. Flowers commonly found in lawns include Dutch clover, but you may also have native species of clovers, violets, and selfheal. The number of bees that your unmown lawn can support depends on the species and abundance of flowers intermixed with the grass. A lawn without any flowers won’t provide food for bees, while one rich in a diversity of native species can attract lots of bees. Non-native plant species will provide some nectar and pollen to bees, however native plants will attract and support a greater variety of native bee species. Since many of the thousands of bee species native to North America are specialists, relying on one or just a few kinds of native plants, it’s important to do what you can to increase native plants.

Some weeds should be controlled. A bee-friendly lawn is not an abandoned weed patch! Dandelions are seemingly found everywhere and are often seen as a good plant. However, they will suppress growth of plants around them, producing chemicals in its root and leaves that will slow growth of surrounding grasses, and may even disrupt plant reproduction if dandelion pollen is carried to other species. What counts as a problem (“noxious”) weed does vary with the regions. Creeping charlie, for example, maybe fine in some areas, but a real no-no in others. Similarly, some states urge control of Dutch white clover. Check your state’s noxious weed list or seek out an invasive plant organization to find out more. Contact your local extension service for advice on management of specific noxious weed species.

There are over 3,600 species of bees in the U.S. and Canada: mason bees, sweat bees, mining bees, polyester bees, small carpenter bees, yellow-faced bees, leafcutter bees, long-horned bees, squash bees, carpenter bees, bumble bees, digger bees, and more! The largest (large carpenter bees and bumble bees) may be 1.25” long, the smallest (small sweat bees and fairy bees) 0.1” or less in length. Bees may be hairy or shiny, be black, brown, red, sparkling metallic green, or shimmering blue, have bands of yellow, orange, white, or change color depending on the light angle — not at all like the cartoon image of black-and-yellow and hairy. And unlike the honey bee that lives in a colony of tens of thousands, many of these bee species are solitary — they live and raise their young on their own!

his just illustrates that there is no “one size fits all” approach to gardening — or pollinator conservation! Some mining bees prefer to nest in locations with thin or patchy grass. In some places they are referred to as “lawn bees,” but now are widely known as “tickle bees” thanks to the amazing aggregation at an elementary school in Portland, OR. If you are lucky enough to have ground-nesting bees in your lawn, it will be better to keep mowing the area in which they are nesting. You’ll probably want to mow in the evening when the bees are not active — walking or running a mower over their nests won’t harm them. They’ll be sheltering in their nest tunnels and will re-emerge the next morning. 

Other species prefer bare soil, so no matter how you manage your lawn, you can provide nesting sites for ground-nesting bees by leaving patches of bare earth with no plants or mulch covering it.

A photo of a green lawn with small mounds of brown dirt with holes at the center of each.
An aggregation of ground-nesting bee nests in an urban yard. Photo: Kelly Gill

We get it that people want a place where they can throw a ball, their dog can run around, or they can sit with friends on a summer evening. Your garden needs to fulfill multiple roles. None of those activities, however, require a grass-only, unblemished lawn. All of them can be done on a flower-filled lawn. As your space and household needs allow, you can also consider dedicating a smaller portion of your yard to lawn that is mowed and convert the rest to plants for pollinators. The spaces you’ve gained can be used to grow a range of native or non-invasive pollinator-friendly plants such as shrubs, flowers (annuals and perennials), a border of bunchgrasses, vegetables, herbs, or berries. Another option for areas that won’t get a lot of foot traffic but where shorter vegetation or less mowing is valued, is to sow naturally short grasses or grass-like plants such as buffalo grass and rushes, as well as selfheal or violets.

If letting your lawn grow is not possible due to your community’s landscaping rules, there are several other options for making your yard, patio, or balcony more pollinator-friendly. You can reduce the amount of lawn that is turfgrass and fill those areas with landscaping full of plants that provide host plants, nectar, pollen, nesting materials, nest sites, and shelter from harsh weather. Even a window box or planter can be a place to provide more habitat and resources for pollinators. You could also revisit the vegetation policies of your HOA or local government. As attitudes change around sustainability topics such as mowing, pesticide use, and native landscaping, restrictive landscaping rules are increasingly out of step with the growing numbers of residents like yourself who want to plant and care for their yards and community green spaces in ways that are healthy and attractive for pollinators, wildlife, and people. Keep asking for changes!

Yes. Commonly used lawn and garden pesticides can harm pollinators and other invertebrates. Many of the insecticides you find on store shelves are broad-spectrum, meaning that they can harm a wide range of insects including bees, butterflies, and other beneficials. Avoiding insecticide use is key to maintaining healthy pollinator habitat, but herbicides and fungicides can also have negative impacts. For example, they can make bees can get sick more easily, and can make it harder for them to navigate. Herbicides also have an indirect impact: killing flowering plants in the landscape that bees rely on for food. So we recommend avoiding all pesticide use in yards and gardens. This ensures a healthy ecosystem for both your family and pollinators using your habitat. You can read more about pesticide-free pollinator gardening here.

Turfgrass on its own does not provide food for pollinators. However, small changes in lawn management can make your yard safer for pollinators by helping you avoid pesticides:

  • Raise the mowing height and reduce the frequency of mowing
  • Encourage a mix of grasses and low-growing flowering perennials
  • Flowering lawns are also lower maintenance; rather than spending time and resources attempting to destroy all plants except grasses, a diversity of plants — including violets, selfheal, and clovers — are encouraged.
  • Use preventative maintenance strategies to keep lawns healthy and limit weed growth, such as aeration to support grass roots and proper watering.
  • Manage any unwanted weeds the old fashioned way, with gloves and hand tools. Removing weeds before they go to seed will prevent them from growing again next year. Reseed areas where weeds are removed or turf has been damaged. To keep your lawn healthy, consider applying a thin layer of compost in the spring, and leaving grass clippings in place.

Taking the simple step of communicating why you’ve made the landscaping choices you have to your neighbors and other passersby can help others understand that by landscaping your yard more naturally you have made an intentional decision to create habitat for wildlife rather than neglecting your yard. Putting up signs can be an easy and effective way to educate others about the benefits of reducing mowing for bees and other pollinators. Signs may also spark conversations and encourage your neighbors and visitors to consider their own yard and actions they can take to create better habitat. Download free artwork below.

Free, printable:Low Mow Zone / Zona de Poca Poda“ (this Spanish translation may be most widely understood)

Free, printable: Low Mow Zone / Zona de Cortar Menos” (this Spanish translation may be preferred for California)

Free, printable: Xerces also has a Pollinator Habitat In Progress” sign

Image of four colorful yard signs

Pictured above are pre-made habitat signs available for a donation in the Xerces Society Gift Center.

 

Reducing mowing for a single month is a relatively easy step that you can take, but it’s not enough on its own to help bees and other pollinators—and any benefits will be limited if you power up your mower and restart as if nothing has changed once the month ends. There are many other additional steps you can take to improve your habitat year-round. The three most important things you can do to support bees on your property are to:

  1. Plant regionally native plant species.
  2. Provide natural nesting areas,
  3. Reduce or eliminate the use of pesticides.

If you’re interested in taking the next step in turning your lawn into better habitat for pollinators, consider converting it to a pollinator-friendly lawn or removing your lawn entirely and replacing it with native plants.

Yes, No Mow May is just a beginning, an initial step in making our urban landscapes more hospitable to bees and other pollinators. There are 40 million acres of turfgrass in the United States, and two thirds of that is home lawns. No Mow May is a great opportunity to shine a spotlight on the needs of native bees and highlight the problems with what might be called “typical” lawn care and gardening. Pausing mowing for one month will bring some benefits, but on its own is not enough. Bees need more than lawn weeds blooming for a few weeks. It should be a starting point for how we can make those featureless acres better for bees. To truly have a lasting impact, we need to reduce the area devoted to lifeless lawns and replace them with native plantings. And we need to provide for the whole life cycle of bees with places to nest and shelter. Pollinator conservation is a year-round activity, not just something that happens for one month.

We recommend maintaining a mowed buffer near your house or in high-traffic areas in tick-heavy regions. Ticks prefer shade, so creating gravel, bark, or wood mulch borders (about 3 feet wide) between sunny lawns and shady forests can reduce their numbers in the grass. Rodents and deer are carriers, so planting deer-resistant plants and discouraging rodent habitat can also reduce ticks near your home. Replacing lawns with ferns, herbs, and other plants can also help.

For more information see our guide: Smarter Pest Management: Protecting Pollinators at Home (page 7) and Tick Management Handbook by the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station (Integrated Tick Management section is on page 44).

Not all weeds are noxious, some “weeds” are even native! But if you do have noxious or invasive weeds, remove them as you would any other time of the year, prioritizing non-chemical methods when possible. Check your state’s noxious weed list or seek out an invasive plant organization to learn which weeds need control. Contact your local extension service for advice on management of specific noxious weed species.

Green spring grasses are not too much of a fire risk, but dry grass is. Follow local fire safety recommendations for mowing and landscaping if you are in a fire-prone community.

If you only have grass (a monoculture with no clovers, etc.), not mowing will not provide any new floral resources for bees. You could plant some native, spring-blooming flowers instead—but remember, you won’t get much bloom this year. The benefit from those will be in the years ahead.

It’s hard to say how people will react. Some people may not be happy to see a wilder yard, others may be thrilled. Seeing changes in a landscape can take time to accept. Let your neighbors know you are letting your yard get a bit wild for a good reason. Allowing your lawn to grow a bit longer or converting part of your yard to pollinator habitat will mean it will look different, but you aren’t abandoning it. You’ll still be tending and caring for it and there are some “cues to care” you can do to show that such as:

  • Mowing a neat border near sidewalks and paths.
  • Adding short fencing or rocks to tidy up the appearance of the yard.
  • Putting up a handmade or purchased pollinator habitat sign.
  • Adding plant labels to show your intentional planting choices.
  • Including features like benches and bird baths to show that the space is being used.
  • Offering garden tours can be a great way to build acceptance for your habitat.
  • Don’t be afraid to talk to your neighbors, too!

Here’s a quick “lasagna” method to smother grass: Cut grass short, but leave the clippings. Completely cover grass with clean, tape-free cardboard (no gaps) and wet it down. Top with a thick layer of wood chips. Contact your local arborists for free or cheap wood chips. Another successful method is solarization using plastic sheeting. You’ll find details about these and other approaches in the Xerces Society’s guidelines, Organic Site Preparation for Wildflower Establishment. You can add native pollinator plants at any time, from flowers to shrubs to trees.

Another Xerces Society publication, and another that can be downloaded for free, is Mid-Atlantic Native Meadows: Guidelines for Planning, Preparation, Design, Installation, and Maintenance. This offers detailed information about planning, creating, and maintaining meadows in place of lawns. (The information is relevant for more than only the Mid-Atlantic region)

Reduced mowing does help other insects that benefit from the longer stems and lusher growth—plant hoppers, fireflies, etc. Longer grass may not help ground nesting bees (that lush growth can be a barrier to accessing the soil), but less intense lawn care can. Mining bees (Andrena, aka tickle bees, and known in some places as lawn bees) are often the primary bees that nest in lawns. What they need is the space between grasses to reach the soil. Cultivating a well-fertilized dense sward can hinder that.

No Mow May in the US was sparked by the community of Appleton, WI. The city is a Bee City USA affiliate, and Lawrence University, located in Appleton, is a Bee Campus USA affiliate. In a blog written by these affiliates about their experience of No Mow May, leaders from that community noted:
“In the beginning, there were fears that the program would increase animosity and conflict among neighbors, that it would lead to explosions of rodents and ticks in tall grasses, and that it would destroy lawn mowers as they moved through knee high grass. Not only did those things not come to pass, but to everyone’s surprise, weed complaints rose only negligibly and a large portion of the community participated in the program.”

In reality, the vegetation in your habitat is not enough to support rodents and snakes. Snakes require plentiful food (like rodents!) and rodents are more attracted to garbage and human food scraps than the vegetation in your yard. Penn State Extension Service has information about “neighborly landscaping” that also addresses this concern.

It can be hard to know exactly when and where the bees will be year-to-year. Some bees emerge later in the season if the weather is colder. If you have fruit trees or other early blooming trees or shrubs, bees may prefer those over lawn weeds. Similarly, if there are natural areas nearby with willows, they may be hanging out there. What time your local bees may emerge varies with climate. You could ask local university biology or entomology departments or your local cooperative extension service — look for Master Gardeners or Master Naturalists — if they know when they expect bees to start emerging.

University of Minnesota recommends waiting until you have a relatively dry day, then mowing your lawn down by no more than a third of its height at a time. If you are worried about your mower getting through the grass, you can try mowing every two to three weeks.

The exact costs of lawn conversion will depend on many factors, including size, how you remove the existing lawn, the number of species you plant, etc., etc. The Xerces Society publication Mid-Atlantic Native Meadows: Guidelines for Planning, Preparation, Design, Installation, and Maintenance (download for free) has information about planning, creating, and maintaining meadows in place of lawns, including cost comparisons.

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